BY DAVE KELLY
There is a mountain town that combines the charm of the Old West with the allure of the great outdoors. Unsurpassed ski resorts with cowboy-chic bars. And an exceptional art scene with unparalleled wildlife.
Welcome to Jackson Wyoming.
Some call the area “Jackson Hole”, which is a wide valley that begins about five miles south of Yellowstone National Park to the north, ends at the Snake River just south of the town of Jackson itself, and is home to Grand Teton National Park.
But make no mistake – whatever you call it, it is nothing short of breathtaking.
The area has been home to Indigenous Blackfoot, Crow, and Eastern Shoshone tribes for over 10,000 years. The town itself was named after William Henry Jackson, who took the first photographs of the Teton Mountains and nearby Yellowstone. These pictures, along with sketches by fellow traveler Tom Moran, helped convince Congress to protect the land by designating Yellowstone as the first national park in 1872.
Jackson was settled in the late 1800’s, with dude ranches becoming the focal point of a growing pioneer community. It was ahead of its time, electing an all-female town council in 1920, and soon after, Jackson Square was built, which since 1953 has featured arches made up of hundreds of shed antlers gathered from the National Elk Refuge just north of town.
We chose The Cloudveil as home base for our Jackson Hole experience. This Marriott Autograph Collection hotel offers eclectic luxury at the center of the activity in the area. Majestic mountain ranges serve as a backdrop for exceptional dining and shopping experiences just steps from the front door.
The hotel’s setting is a modern take on Western history. Our rooms incorporated the natural beauty of our surroundings and contemporary comforts such as a gas fireplace. In a nod to Grand Teton National Park’s proximity, each hallway features life-sized wildlife videos on the walls at the end of each corridor. Authentic leather furniture lined with local furs reflects the Wyoming spirit.
An all-day restaurant, The Bistro, is located on site. Drawing on inspiration from Parisian-style neighborhood brasseries, it features modern European dining, bringing seasonal, beautifully prepared dishes to life. While it is convenient for Cloudveil guests – we enjoyed croissant-and-coffee breakfasts there every morning – it attracts folks from around town with its dynamic interior layout, unique zinc bar, and a fresh raw bar.
Photo Courtesy Teton Wild
The following day, we were up before the sun to meet our guide Mark Bolen, owner of Teton Wild Custom Wildlife Tours, to begin our Jackson Hole adventure. Mark’s tours explore the very heart of Jackson Hole, with his years of experience allowing for the exploration of hidden gems and breathtaking vistas.
Our half-day tour led us into Grand Teton National Park, which boasts over 300,000 acres of magnificent mountains and spectacular wildlife. We began our morning by witnessing a stunning sunrise over the rugged peaks of the Gros Ventre Mountain Range just north of town, looking east over the National Elk Refuge, home to as many as 7,500 migrating elk every winter. Although it was early in the season, hundreds of elk meandered through the valley in the morning light, seeking a safe harbor for the winter months.
It was a remarkable way to begin our day.
Over the next five hours, Mark helped us explore the expansive park, from sweeping Jackson Lake in the north to picturesque Jenny Lake, which proudly displays Grand, Middle, and South Teton mountain peaks as her stunning backdrop.
We visited other notable places in the park, such as Mormon Row, a scenic collection of six abandoned building clusters from an early settlement in the area, and the Chapel of the Sacred Heart, a charming wooden church on the shores of Jackson Lake that was built in the 1930’s and still holds services today.
But the spirit of any expedition into Jackson Hole is its wildlife. Mark took us down single-lane country roads in search of bison, elk, moose, and antelope, and our success rate was outstanding. He located them all as we explored, starting with a herd of over 50 bison that we discovered down a narrow twisting lane. We exited the tour vehicle, keeping it between us and the herd, and stood in a field no more than 100 feet from many of these majestic creatures. It was a peaceful and serene setting to experience the best of nature’s gifts.
Our tour had it all, including sightings of bull moose butting heads, coyotes circling their prey, and mule deer close enough to the vehicle that we could see their breath in the air - all of it surrounded by stunning peaks, valleys, and rivers. To top it off, Mark’s personal anecdotes accentuated the local vibe that Teton Wild Custom Wildlife Tours is known for.
To relax from our day of exploring, we decided to visit Astoria Hot Springs and Park. The springs, part of a hundred-acre property managed by Astoria Park Conservancy, were built in 1960 as two pools for the community to gather at, utilizing the thermal springs of the area to keep the water temperatures at a constant 100 degrees or more, as they still do today.
Four more pools were added in 2018, and guests now make reservations for sessions throughout the day that last an hour and 45 minutes. When we arrived, we changed into our suits, scampered through the chilly air to the main pool, and jumped in for a soak. The water warmed us to the soul as we enjoyed looking out over the stunning landscape while steam rose into the air.
We showered off and headed back to The Cloudveil, invigorated for the rest of the trip’s activities. Our visit featured world-class museums, galleries, and restaurants. We enjoyed exploring and have created a list of "don't miss" recommendations for any trip to Jackson Hole.
Photo Courtesy of Kristina Rodriguez
Experience Jackson Hole
Our visit featured world-class museums, galleries, and restaurants. We enjoyed exploring and have created a list of “don’t miss” recommendations for any trip to Jackson Hole.
National Museum of Wildlife Art – Built on a steep hillside with a stunning view of the National Elk Refuge, this museum is home to more than 5,000 paintings and sculptures that represent wild animals from around the world. Works from such prominent artists as Andy Warhol, Georgia O’Keeffe, and John J. Audubon abound, and American wildlife artist Carl Rungius has an exhibit that displays his stunning big-game paintings. The museum is surrounded by a ¾ mile Sculpture Trail that leads past dozens of huge animal statues created by world-famous sculptors.
Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum - Founded in 1958 by Western history buff Slim Lawrence, this museum focuses on over 10,000 years of man’s presence in the area. From the history of its Indigenous people to the founding of the city of Jackson, the museum’s exhibits highlight the area’s growth from fur trading and dude ranches to winter sports and outdoor activities. The museum is currently in the process of moving to its new location and will open in the summer of 2024.
The Gun Barrel Steak & Game House – A restaurant that opened in 1993 in what was the Wyoming Wildlife Museum & Taxidermy, the Gun Barrel’s décor includes full-mount game trophies, Wyoming-based cowboy artifacts, and antique guns and gun barrels. The unique menu embraces this theme perfectly, with Game Fare selections that feature elk loin, bison ribeye, and our new favorite, bourbon barbeque bison ribs. The night we were there, they also offered an amazing special that featured three tenderloins – elk, bison, and venison – along with specialty sauces that complimented each. Delicious!
Glorietta Trattoria – Tucked into the Anvil Hotel just a short walk away, this restaurant is an Italian trattoria with a focus on handmade pasta and wood-fired cooking, done on the huge wood-burning grill that is the centerpiece of the restaurant’s open kitchen. They often use locally sourced ingredients and pair the meals with expertly crafted cocktails. Their specialty rye cavatelli with elk Bolognese and Parmesan cheese highlights the chef’s pasta-making skills.
Palate – Located in the National Museum of Wildlife Art, Palate offers an artful lunch with a breathtaking hilltop view of the National Elk Refuge. We enjoyed inventive lunches made with seasonal, sustainable, local ingredients such as our Idaho Trout Fish & Chips and our Elk Meatloaf Wrap. Local craft beer and light wines complemented our meals, making for a relaxing afternoon bite.
Gather – Sister restaurant to Palate, Gather is in downtown Jackson just a few minutes’ walk from the Cloudveil. With a warm ambience of mountain chic and eclectic modern cuisine, Gather’s welcoming waitstaff and classic cocktails encouraged us to relax and enjoy the experience. They feature a menu that leans into hearty game prepared in creative ways, so we sampled meals that embraced beef wagyu, bison short ribs, and buttermilk fried chicken.
Round Up
The Cloudveil, Autograph Collection
307-699-6100
Teton Wild Custom Wildlife Tours
770-686-1652
Astoria Hot Springs and Park
(307)201-5925
National Museum of Wildlife Art
(307) 733-5771
Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum
(307) 733-2414
Restaurants
The Bistro
(307) 739-1100
The Gun Barrel Steak & Game House
(307) 733-3287
Glorietta Trattoria
(307) 733-3888
Palate
(307) 201-5208
Gather
(307) 264-1820