History and Art
Early on our second morning, we headed out to Maclay Gardens, a 1,176-acre Florida State Park, botanical garden, and historic site located just north of town. We traveled a brick walkway that leads to the lush 28-acre ornamental gardens that were first planted a hundred years ago by Alfred and Louise Maclay on the property of their winter home. The area also features a secret garden, reflection pool, and a smaller walled garden, replete with hundreds of blooming camellias and azaleas.
We saw dozens of other outdoor enthusiasts enjoying swimming, canoeing, and kayaking on serene Lake Hall, where picnic tables and pavilions line the shore. Walking and hiking buffs also take advantage of paths that wind through the adjacent woods. There are even equestrian trails. It was delightful to find such luxuriant open spaces mere minutes from the city.
That afternoon, we were excited to meet one of our favorite artists, Dean Gioia, a Tallahassee painter and writer with a national reputation who has spent five decades capturing southern landscapes and displaying them on canvas and in print. His works tend to focus on the play of light and how it can affect our perspective on moments in time.
The inspiration for his work is most often the local scenery, focusing on the natural features of the region and its people. Locations such as St. Marks, a coastal Apalachee Bay community just south of town, provide the vision for works like Light at St. Marks, while other regional locations have inspired such masterpieces as Canopy Light and Summer Twilight, Poseys.
“I am here to absorb, reflect and emote,” Dean says. “Love moves my hand.”
His two published books, “Turn of Light” and “Illuminated”, illustrate his passion by featuring dozens of his works.
Dean works out of a downstairs workshop in his north Tallahassee home, showcasing his art in gallery format on walls throughout the house. On our visit, we were delighted to experience his creations in person, noting the incredible detail as we watched the light dance throughout his paintings, lending them an ethereal presence.
Blue Water and the Black Lagoon
The following day, it was up and out early exploring Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park, the world’s largest freshwater spring, pushing out over 200 million gallons of fresh 70-degree water every day. The strikingly sapphire blue water of the springs has carved out almost 12 miles of connected underground conduits in the limestone and is home to alligators, manatees, and diverse avian wildlife that can be viewed from the onsite riverboat or the historic riverside diving platform.
The scenic Jungle Cruise Tour down the Wakulla River departs every hour, taking visitors on a ranger-led, 45-minute wildlife viewing trip. We hopped on board for the 2-mile loop downstream and back and were amazed to see so much activity on the serene water. Ibis, cormorants, and herons roosted in bald cypress trees, and nests of baby alligators were guarded by attentive and wary moms.
Our guide told us stories about the history of the springs, including many centering on the movie industry in the 1930’s, 40’s, and 50’s. Many “Tarzan” movies were filmed here, for instance, as well as three from the “Creature of the Black Lagoon” series. In fact, part-time Wakulla Springs lifeguard Ricou Browning stepped in when asked and played the underwater role of the iconic Gill-man in three films, reportedly holding his breath up to four minutes. Mr. Browning just died this year at age 93.
The central land feature of Edward Ball Wakulla Springs State Park is The Lodge at Wakulla Springs, a 27-room grand hotel built almost 100 years ago by financier Edward Ball. He styled the hotel to reflect the serenity of what he considered to be the most peaceful place he had ever seen. He imported quality marble and tile, hired artisans and craftsmen to work iron and stone, creating an entirely unique retreat. In fact, the world’s longest marble bar, measuring a whopping 70 feet, is still in the hotel.
The Lodge at Wakulla Springs is also home to the oldest working elevator in Florida, which is still in use today. Also dominating this space is a huge 16-foot ceiling featuring intricate decorative painting of local scenes overlaid on the hand-hewn cypress panels.
It is breathtaking to behold.