David Kelly Consulting

There’s a quaint little city tucked into Georgia’s southeastern coast, and it’s calling to you. Located midway between Savannah and Jacksonville, Darien is situated on the banks of the scenic Altamaha River and is brimming with stunning waterfront views, boating and fishing opportunities, and mouthwatering regional seafood at family-owned restaurants. Throw in the genuine Southern hospitality that abounds in the business owners and residents, and you will understand why it’s a must-visit destination.

The city itself is drenched in history. Founded in 1736 at the mouth of the Altamaha by immigrants who fled Scotland, the town protected British interests to the north from Spanish invasion from the south. In fact, Fort King George, the settlement built in 1721 near the future city’s site, was the southernmost point of the British Empire in North America.

Over the next two centuries, Darien experienced many changes yet always adapted and grew. The city was burned to the ground in 1863 by Union troops during the Civil War – an act famously depicted in the movie “Glory” – then rebuilt after the war. Growth throughout the ensuing years in such diverse fields as lumber, seafood harvesting, and tourism shaped the city into what it is today.

After choosing the enchanting Open Gates Bed & Breakfast as home base for our trip, we headed north to Darien and quickly got our first taste of the area’s hospitality and charm. Inn owners Zach and Carrie bent over backwards to help make our trip memorable, adding small touches like a tour of the house, a personalized map of neighborhood spots to visit, and even complimentary goodies in our room provided by local chocolatier Sugar Marsh Cottage.

The house itself was built in 1876, making it the first residence built on picturesque Vernon Square and one of the oldest remaining homes in the city limits. Over the years, a succession of owners added personal touches that enhanced the home, such as oak plank flooring, a wooded cozy library, and a Garden Room behind the main house. Many of these quaint attributes add to the inn’s charm, including old-fashioned room keys from a bygone era. We chose to stay in the Magnolia Room, one of five on the property that are all decorated and outfitted individually. Our room had a king size bed plus a daybed and was gracefully adorned with Old South flair.

As with most B&Bs, breakfast is included in your stay, but that’s where any similarity to others ends. Owner Zach, who has a culinary degree, spent years on small cruise lines and private yachts honing his chef skills. His talents are showcased each morning in the striking presentations and tastes of his unique breakfast dishes, separating Open Gates from the typical bed and breakfast inn through his gastronomic skills and his attention to detail. It was a delectable way to start each day.

Open Gates is the perfect name for this bed and breakfast, as it embodies the welcoming atmosphere that Zach and Carrie convey wholeheartedly to their guests.

(Continue reading below photos).

We were up and out at 6 a.m. the next day, ready to try our hands at fishing on the local waters. Our research showed us the way to one of the area’s top fishing guides, Georgia native Captain Chris, owner of Ruff’s Custom Coastal Adventures, so we teamed up with him and headed out in the cool morning air. As we left Blue N Hall Marina just north of town and watched the sun come up over the spartina marsh grass and calm clear waters, Chris explained that the tides in the area, which can fluctuate up to seven feet or more, play a bigger role in the local ecosystem than anywhere else on the east coast.

Our goal for the day was to achieve the “Grand Slam” of local fishing by landing at least one each of the four major types in the area – redfish, sea trout, flounder, and bonnethead. The captain came fully prepared, providing us with ready-rigged poles, buckets of live bait, and years of fishing experience. We cruised the waters around Union Island and into the Darien River, stopping at Chris’ favorite honey-holes in search of early morning action. Before the sun had cleared the horizon, we had our first strike and reeled in a nice little bonnethead – one of many species of shark in the local backwaters. Over the course of the next four hours, we kept the lines taut and managed to land many of the next two fish on our list –trout and flounder. We could smell Grand Slam success in the air.

As the tide changed and the waters began moving fast, Chris suggested a couple little-known spots for us to hunt the final species on our list – the redfish. Known for their delicious flavor and a favorite of blackened-seasoning fans, we knew that we wanted to land a few and take them back to town with us, where local restaurant Skipper’s Fish Camp will cook up your catch if you bring it in filleted. Sure enough, Chris’ advice paid off. Over the next hour, we landed enough “keeper” redfish to feed us all that evening and more. Grand Slam!

Ruff’s Custom Coastal Adventures also offers dolphin and island tours, turkey and hog hunting trips, and firearms safety classes.

To learn more about Darien, we joined up with Captains Paul and Kim Medders, owners of Georgia Tidewater Outfitters. Their company hosts wine, nature, and beach tours, but we soon found out that their passion runs so much deeper than that. In addition to being business owners, they are both science people who love sharing the beauty of Darien’s natural world by exposing their guests to the freshwater swamps and estuaries of the area. Kim, a high school environmental science teacher, and Paul, who has worked for nearly thirty years as a biologist in the area, are proud to share their knowledge while they guide tours on their boat, the Dixie Belle, through the local waters.

We joined them on an evening sunset coastal tour of the Darien River and were fascinated by Paul’s insights into the area’s history and ecosystem. So great is his enthusiasm, in fact, that he collaborated with cartoonist Jim Jinkins, famous for his “PB&J Otter” cartoon series, to produce a comic booklet entitled “Catch the Excitement.” His tours, as well as local businesses, pass the booklet out to visiting kids, imbuing them with an early sense of joy and wonder at coastal Georgia’s place in the environment.

We spent the next couple of hours on the river, listening to Paul recount local history and explain how the Darien community works to keep its environmental spirit alive. Between the shrimping industry, the lumber history, and the local tourism, Darien has come full circle to embrace its place in South Georgia’s outdoor legacy.

To catch a little wide-open water, we spent the next morning with Jordan of Coastal Backwater Adventures, where we rented CraigCats to explore the area around the Golden Isles just south of Darien. These boats are motorized, personal-sized pontoon catamarans that seat one or two and can reach speeds of up to 30 knots. Each has space for a driver and a passenger, and with just a quick instruction session and a couple practice passes we were up to speed and comfortable driving these zippy beauties on the open waters.

We cast off from the dock and were immediately embraced by the wildlife around us. Jordan channeled his eight years of experience with Coastal Backwater Adventures to guide us into bays and inlets that featured lazy alligators, roosting birds, and even playful dolphins. After pointing out many land and sea features in the area, Jordan took us to a local favorite spot aptly named Bird Island. As we approached this sandy islet in St. Simons Sound, we marveled at the incredible number of birds gathered. Plovers, ospreys, and spoonbills mingled with brown and white pelicans by the hundreds, flying close to our boats and leaving us all in amazement.

Coastal Backwater Adventures has four CraigCat boats and can take up to eight guests on their tours. They generally host three trips per day that leave from the Lanier Island Boat Ramp and traverse the greater St. Simons waters.

To fully experience the culinary delights of Darien, there’s no better place to visit than B & J’s Steak & Seafood. True to the city’s roots in the shrimping industry, B & J’s features locally sourced and prepared seafood such as fried wild Georgia shrimp, creative fish dishes, and a weekend seafood buffet. We spent the better part of an evening there, taking in all that the regional waters have to offer and experiencing the Southern hospitality that we had come to expect in Darien.

We also enjoyed many different bars and restaurants in the city. Don’t miss …

· Marsh Pirate – This new outfitter’s location on the Darien River features craft beers, live entertainment, fishing equipment, and more. Visit this old waterfront building and join them for their “Local Social” every Wednesday night.

· Skipper’s Fish Camp Oyster Bar and Grill - A classic waterfront restaurant offering mouthwatering seafood, public boat slips, and stunning sunset views. With a menu specializing in sweet Georgia shrimp and indoor or outdoor seating, Skipper’s is the heartbeat of Darien’s downtown scene.

· Tabby House Brewing Company – Enjoy food, drink, and entertainment in the city’s oldest surviving structure. This typical oyster shell “tabby”-style building brings over 200 years of history to its in-house museum while catering to local guests with its craft brews and unique menu.

· Waterfront Wine & Gourmet – The city’s local “Cheers”-style bar specializes in craft beers, specialty cheeses, and meats. They also feature Georgia-made wines from regional vineyards such as the Horse Creek Winery in their tasting room.

Round Up

Open Gates Bed & Breakfast

www.OpenGatesBnB.com

Ruff’s Custom Coastal Adventures

www.RCCAGA.com

Coastal Backwater Adventures

www.CoastalBackwaterAdventures.com

Georgia Tidewater Outfitters

www.GeorgiaTidewaterOutfitters.com

B & J’s Steak and Seafood